Pizzoccheri (Buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potatoes and lots of butter)

Pizzoccheri is a substantial, earthy buckwheat pasta dish from Valtellina, the northeast, mountainous part of Lombardy, near to the Swiss border. It is an earthy dish with lots of cheese and butter, with potatoes and savoy cabbage,  suitable for cold weather and big appetites – comfort food. Actually, there is also a lighter, more spring-like version of pizzoccheri, where cabbage is replaced by fagiolini, fine spring green beans. In other words, there is always a right time to enjoy this beautiful pasta dish. Continue reading “Pizzoccheri (Buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potatoes and lots of butter)”

Risoto de peoci (Risotto with mussels)

This is a risotto from Veneto, North-east Italy, a region that offers a magnificent but restrained fish and seafood cuisine, well exemplified by this sober, briny risotto with mussels – Peoci is local dialect for mussels, cozze in Italian.  If you happen to spend a few days in Venice, the capital of Veneto, do check the Rialto fish market,  which is a cornucopia of marine life and whose charm made Elizabeth David write one of most celebrated pieces of food writing in English. It is as magical now as it was sixty years ago. Continue reading “Risoto de peoci (Risotto with mussels)”

Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino (Spaghetti with garlic, oil and chilli)

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Contrary to popular myth, authentic Italian cooking is actually rather cautious when it comes to garlic – a little goes a long way. In a dish feeding four to six people, one or two cloves are plenty. It is actually English (and American) versions of Italian dishes that tend to overdo the garlic, what Anna del Conte calls “Britalian” food.  Continue reading “Spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino (Spaghetti with garlic, oil and chilli)”

Biscotti al mais (polenta shortbread biscuits)

One can find biscuits made with corn (maize or polenta) flour in many parts of Northern Italy. They can be plain or with sultanas, are always rather buttery, and are most often flavoured with vanilla, lemon or orange. Sometimes they’re crisp and short, sometimes softer and more cakey.
I particularly like this version: not too rich, sweet but with a salty bite, super crisp and with that lovely crunchiness of polenta flour.  I have them for breakfast with my espresso and in the afternoon with tea, but they also go very well with fruit compote and  ice cream. Continue reading “Biscotti al mais (polenta shortbread biscuits)”

Ris e latt (Rice and Milk soup)

IMG_1118Ris e latt is Milanese dialect for the Italian riso e latte, rice and milk. It sounds dull – it is not.  It is a warming, un-showy but far from boring minestra (soup) from Lombardy: risotto rice simmered in a copious quantity of full fat milk and water,  mildly flavored with a little onion and bay leaf, enriched in the end by a generous amount of butter and Parmesan, a touch of freshly grated nutmeg and a shower of chopped parsley.  There are many versions of this dish: I prefer it soupy but it is also possible to make it thicker, although it should not be risotto-like. Some people cook the rice with milk only (too rich for me) and others start with cooking some chopped onion in butter and then add all the other ingredients. I have also seen versions with chestnuts (cooked, vacuum-packed chestnuts now easily available) and even with potatoes added to the liquid at the very beginning.

Continue reading “Ris e latt (Rice and Milk soup)”