Pàn de mèj (Elderflower and polenta sweet buns from Milan)

19/06/201602/05/2023 ~ stefano arturi ~ 2 Comments

It is elderflower time now in England: on a sunny day if you come across elderflower bushes, you are hit by their unmistakable, intensely floral, sweet smell. Sambuco (elderflower) is the star ingredient of these very old, crumbly, perfumed Milanese buns, centuries ago made with millet flour, later with corn (polenta) flour. Traditionally, in Milan until the post First World War years, pàn de mèj buns were eaten on the 23rd April, St George’s day, the patron saint of lattai, milkmen. On that day, lattai used to offer single cream to their customers, knowing that they would later on customarily pour it over the pàn de mèj . Continue reading “Pàn de mèj (Elderflower and polenta sweet buns from Milan)” →

Pitta ‘nchiusa (Raisin, nuts, honey pastry from Calabria)

28/01/201631/12/2020 ~ stefano arturi ~ 13 Comments

Pittanchiusa (or Pitta ‘mpigliata o pittacupassule) is a typical Christmas pastry from Calabria, the southernmost part of the country. Strips of an olive oil and white wine pastry are filled with walnuts, raisins, orange zest, clove, cinnamon and syrupy vincotto, rolled into coils (or rosette, as we say in Italian, meaning “little roses” – much more poetic), doused with honey and baked into a glistening, caramelized, bronze-coloured “flower”.

Pittanchiusa is crisp and deliciously gooey at the same time, sweet, spicy, and citrusy, the muted bitterness of the walnuts counterbalancing the overall sweetness. It would be a pity to limit this lovely pastry to Christmas only. Continue reading “Pitta ‘nchiusa (Raisin, nuts, honey pastry from Calabria)” →

Biscotti al mais (polenta shortbread biscuits)

20/11/201510/11/2016 ~ stefano arturi ~ 5 Comments

One can find biscuits made with corn (maize or polenta) flour in many parts of Northern Italy. They can be plain or with sultanas, are always rather buttery, and are most often flavoured with vanilla, lemon or orange. Sometimes they’re crisp and short, sometimes softer and more cakey.
I particularly like this version: not too rich, sweet but with a salty bite, super crisp and with that lovely crunchiness of polenta flour. I have them for breakfast with my espresso and in the afternoon with tea, but they also go very well with fruit compote and ice cream. Continue reading “Biscotti al mais (polenta shortbread biscuits)” →