Hazelnut ragù (ragù di nocciole)

An unusual recipe where toasted hazelnuts replace minced meat. I discovered this idea online, but there is not much information about it – I suspect this is a relatively modern recipe.
The chopped hazelnuts lose their crunchiness, and, with the support of tomatoes, dried ceps, spices and red wine, become a deeply flavoured sauce, as satisfying as a conventional meat ragu’. 
This really is a sumptuous condiment for pasta and polenta, which happens to be vegan.  

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Torta di patate e porri, della Lunigiana ma con influenze sudiste (potato and leek pie, from Lunigiana but also with southern Italian influences)

Lunigiana is the austere mountainous area where three regions meet: Toscana, Liguria and Emilia Romagna. From the administrative point of view, it is now part of Tuscany, but historically and culturally it has always been a terra di confine, a border land, where the identities of those three regions, and of its people and food cultures, meet and seep into each other. 
The tosco-emiliano Apennine runs through it, with its majestic woodland of chestnut trees, but one is also never too far from the sea. In Lunigiana, the butter of Emilia Romagna food culture meets the extra virgin olive oil of Liguria and Tuscany. 
Mountains and sea, butter and oil.

Continue reading “Torta di patate e porri, della Lunigiana ma con influenze sudiste (potato and leek pie, from Lunigiana but also with southern Italian influences)”

Miascia (Bread, grape and rosemary cake from Lake Como)

Miascia (mee-AH-sha) is a bread cake typically found in the lovely villages dotting Lake Como. It is an impromptu cake, made with cheap ingredients: stale bread, milk, some fruit, fresh or dried, polenta flour, sugar, a little chopped rosemary to give an elusive perfume. Nothing fancy and yet the final result is truly delicious. The bread is soaked in milk and then fruit is added, with very little flour to bind. This creates a lovely custardy texture that contrasts well with the crunchy topping. Continue reading “Miascia (Bread, grape and rosemary cake from Lake Como)”

Pasta china – baked pasta with mini meatballs and lots of other lovely things, from Calabria

“Pasta china” is the name of a sumptuous, festive, baked pasta dish from Calabria, the heel of Italy, in the deep south. In the local dialect, “china” stands for the Italian adjective “piena”, full, and that’s exactly what this dish is about: a riotous affair of short tubular pasta dressed with a spicy tomato sauce, layered with marble-size meatballs, gooey cheese, crumbled boiled eggs, spicy Calabrese sausage, grated parmigiano and pecorino. Definitely, one of those Southern Italian dishes where restraint is out of the question.

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