Category: Verdure – vegetables

Torta Pasqualina (Easter chard and fresh cheese pie from Liguria)

~ stefano arturi ~ 43 Comments

To say that we Italians are food traditionalists is an understatement. Time and time again we go back to dishes that we have known since we were kids and we still enjoy them immensely. Come Easter and torta pasqualina will appear on very many tables. “Torta pasqualina” translates as Eastertide cake but it is actually a savory pie: layers of a golden, shatteringly flaky olive oil pastry, encasing a substantial filling of chards (biete, in Italian), fresh soft cheese, Parmigiano or pecorino , eggs and marjoram. It is a centuries old dish and one of the highlights of the Italian vegetarian canon – the quintessential spring dish. Continue reading “Torta Pasqualina (Easter chard and fresh cheese pie from Liguria)” →

Porrata o torta di porri – leek pie from Tuscany via Frank

~ stefano arturi ~ 9 Comments

porrea - torta di porri - leek pie

This is porrata or torta di porri, a leek pie – porri means leeks in Italian.

I learnt it from one of my favourite websites: Memorie di Angelina, written by Frank Fariello and chock a block with great authentic Italian recipes. In turn, Frank learnt it from Giuliano Bugialli and Bugialli claims it to be of Tuscan origin. Continue reading “Porrata o torta di porri – leek pie from Tuscany via Frank” →

Caponata di sedano – celery caponata

~ stefano arturi ~ 4 Comments

Caponata di sedano

Celery is one of the main ingredients in the classic summer aubergine caponata.  Few days ago, I thought of making it the protagonist, foregoing the aubergines (not in season now, of course) and the result was excellent

Please read my post on caponata first. This is just a note to myself, not to forget this dish

First I made the sauce from my caponata recipe.
Meanwhile I stringed a large bunch of celery (whichI  had placed in cold water for few hrs).  I then cut it up in thickish slices.

When the sauce had simmered for about twenty minutes, I added the celery and let it cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally.

The caponata di sedano was rested for 24 hrs and eaten the following days. Delicious.

Update December 2024:
For a large bunch (Italian supermarket size, with leaves) I made x 2 caponata sauce and the result was very good, more like a chutney (pls read below); the sauce was well reduced before adding the celery;

Spices: I (erotically) used the spices for Neapolitan rococo biscuits, and the result was very good;

On (over) cooking the celery: I did overcooked the celery; the following day, when the caponata was good, I decided to chop it up coarse lay – this was smart and transformed the dish in a sort of chutney; I WONDER IF/NEXT TIME: maybe it is better to simply blanch the sliced celery in boiling water and refresh it, then add it to the simmering sauce for few minutes only …??

On cutting the celery: perhaps, slicing the celery not too thickly is actually better

L’insalata di pomodoro perfetta – the perfect tomato salad

~ stefano arturi ~ 7 Comments

tomato salad

 

The perfect tomato salad does not exist, of course. It is one of those highly personal things even if there are a few unbreakable rules. However, I thought it would be a nice idea to share with you what the great Neapolitan food writer Jeanne Carola Francesconi, the author of one of the grandest Italian cookery books La Cucina Napoletana (1963), says about tomato salad.This is my translation.

“Fresh, dewy, savoury, tomato salad is the symbol of summer. One likes it at first sight, with its warm colours that speak of the sun and with its juices that speak of the richness of the earth.

You must know how to make it properly though: the tomatoes will be more or less green, according to taste, or almost as ripe as those used to make tomato sauce. And, again according to taste, they will be large and round, with or without seeds, or pear shaped. They will always be delicious, but they must be dressed judiciously: plenty of salt,  a lot of oil and no vinegar, god forbid – you would spoil them.

From this fresh base, you will always be able to vary flavours, starting from garlic, almost de rigueur, onion and parsley (only if you do not have other herbs). Basil will add freshness, with its tender, young leaves; origano will accentuate the flavour; a few celery stalks, with their leaves, will make a nice contrast. Black olives from Gaeta,  capers and anchovies will make it piquant, tuna preserved in oil will marry with it beautifully and freselle (hard rusks) from a dark country bread will absorb the juices and will make it more substantial. You can add one, two or three of these ingredients or even all of them – the salad will become a real meal, nourishing and tantalising.

On summer evenings, when the heat is oppressive and you are happily tired, drunk from a day of sea and sun, still immersed in that magic enchantment to where nature has transported you, a tomato salad, with its ingenuity, its juices, its fragrance, will be the natural quiet epilogue to those most recent sensations.”