Pan mejino o pàn de mèj o pàndemèinn Pan di miglio/Elderflower and polenta cake from Lombardy

Pan de mej - elderflower and polenta cake

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is an old treat from Lombardy, now, alas, almost extinct.

Originally, “pan de mej” were crinkly yellow flat biscuits made with millet flour (“mej” in the Lombardy dialect and “miglio” in Italian) and flavoured with chopped dry elderflowers; over the course of the centuries the millet has been replaced by polenta flour, but chopped elderflowers have remained a key ingredient. These biscuits were traditionally eaten on the day of San Giorgio, the 23rd of April, dunked in single cream: in Lombardy, San Giorgio was hailed as the patron saint of milkmen and, in long gone days, the 23rd of April was when milk supply contracts were renewed. I can vouch for the excellence of the combination of warm pan de mej and cold single cream. In my version, I follow Anna del Conte’s lead and bake a cake instead of biscuits and I use fresh elderflowers. This is a dry cake, exquisitely perfumed, whose restrained elegance and goodness should be revived.

Pan de mej feels very British actually. Elderflowers and berries have been popular in the British kitchen for centuries: in wines, cordials and fritters. A gooseberry fool flavoured with elderflower, for instance, is one of those great British desserts that can convert even the most sceptical Italian to the joys of British cooking. A bowl of strawberries, macerated with lemon and sugar, is elevated to ethereal levels with a sprinkling of freshly chopped elderflowers.
It is the right time to pick these flowers: fortunately, this most British of trees grows everywhere.

 

Pàn de mèj/ Elderflower and polenta cake

8-10 portions

20 cm victoria sponge cake tin, buttered and floured. For this cake I used 6 heads of elderflowers, washed and dried

This cake can be made successfully in the food processor.

Put the following in the food processor and whizz for 30 seconds:

150 g 00 flour
150 g coarse polenta flour
pinch of salt
grated zest of 1 lemon
120 g sugar
1 ½ teaspoon baking powder

Add:
120 g melted butter
2 beaten eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
60 ml milk

and process just to combine everything, in short pulses.

Mix in by hand:
4 or 5  tablespoons fresh chopped elderflower

Transfer to the tin and top the cake with:
3 teaspoon chopped elderflower mixed with 2 teaspoon each of icing sugar and granulated sugar.

Bake in a 170 C preheated oven for about 30/45 minutes or until a toothpick or a skewer plunged into the centre comes out clean.
Eat warm or at room temperature, ideally with some glorious cold single cream poured over.

 

I have another version of this, a more traditional one, where the dough is shaped into little buns, here

14 thoughts on “Pan mejino o pàn de mèj o pàndemèinn Pan di miglio/Elderflower and polenta cake from Lombardy

  1. Sounds really nice but, as David points out, elderflowers aren’t commonly sold here in the US, although I may learn to recognize the tree which apparently grows all over the eastern part of the country. Not sure why it’s been neglected as a culinary resource.

    It really is a shame how many dishes and ingredients are falling by the wayside. Our cooking ways are in some ways becoming richer, especially with international influences, and yet they’re growing poorer at the same time…

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  2. I made this yesterday having never cooked with elderflowers before. What a revelation! The crumbly texture of the cake and the elderflower taste from the flowers makes for an unusual and really delicious cake. A recipe to keep, thanks Stefano!

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  3. There’s an elder tree behind my house. It’s full of flowers, but it’s far to tall to reach them! The wood pigeons are having a marvelous time eating them. I need to look elsewhere, because I’d love to make elder flower wine and I wouldn’t mind trying your cake!

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    1. Elderflower wine is on my list, even if I fear the explosive side of this activity. I will go to collect more towards the end of the week, hopefully they should still be there

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      1. Elderflower champagne, as it’s sometimes called, is incredibly refreshing and can be quite potent. There are hundreds of flowers right now, so you should be OK for the weekend. Stoppered beer bottles are a good idea and can be reused every year.

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          1. I use a recipe by Jocasta Innes from The Country Kitchen, but I can’t find it online. This one looks sensible, using lemons. People say you should pick in the morning and smell the flowers, discarding any that smell musty. Don’t wash them or you remove the natural yeast!

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              1. You peaked my interest, so i went out and picked a few flowers – there do seem to be plenty around. Let me know if you want me to take a picture of the recipe…

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