Sancrau (braised cabbage with anchovies and garlic, from Piemonte and Liguria)

“Sancrau”, the assonance with “sauerkraut” is clear and this is indeed a cabbage dish: Savoy cabbage cooked with garlic, anchovies and vinegar.
I have not been able to ascertain whether this is the Italian version of sauerkraut (as some sources claim) or if the name is just a coincidence – however, a savoury, robust dish this is for sure. My Piedmontese friends tell me it is THE typical, homely contorno to cotechino in their native Piemonte, even if online sources claim it is from Liguria: both could well be right because Piemonte and Liguria share a border. Oddly enough, I have not found any reference to it in any of my books.

The vinegary, garlicky, slightly fishy taste of sancrau goes well with roasted or boiled meat but also with a parmesan and butter mash, with unadorned polenta or with plain, steamed potatoes. The chopped up leftovers can go into a frittata, a very satisfying one. Occasionally, I have also added a handful of sultanas at the beginning or some un-toasted pinenuts at the end. I have also seen a version (where no source is mentioned though) where crumbled amaretti biscuits are sprinkled on top: I have not tried it, but I like the sound of it.

The use of anchovies is traditional but my fifty-something Piedmontese friend told me that his mum never used them: as usual, one recipe, endless variations. Sancrau is a North Italian, winter dish and I feel butter makes the best and most appropriate cooking fat.

This is how I prepare sancrau:

Thinly slice one Savoy cabbage (1 kg, approximately). Wash, drain and spin/pat it dry. Sweat one sliced onion and a couple of cloves of garlic, finely chopped,  in a generous knob of butter – a wide terracotta/earthenware pot would be ideal for this. The heat is low, the casserole is covered and the vegetables must barely colour. When the onion is really tender, add 4-6 fillets of anchovies preserved in oil and let them melt gently.
Add the cabbage, raise the heat and toss it well in this fishy-garlicky butter.  After a few minutes, lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about  20 minutes. Now add a tumbler of white wine vinegar, about 100 ml. Let it bubble away a little, cover, and simmer for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. By the end the cabbage should be fairly dry.
I think it is better after it has rested a little, reheating it when needed.

 

9 thoughts on “Sancrau (braised cabbage with anchovies and garlic, from Piemonte and Liguria)

  1. This is a new one for me. Sounds really tasty and I can see how it would pair very nicely with cotechino (or sausage in general). Personally I’d skip the amaretti, but that’s me.

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  2. This sounds really mouthwatering, Stefano – the sweetness from a few amaretti crumbled over would make a wonderful contrast!

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    1. ciao david. yes, I agree with u- I really want to try it with amaretti for the new year: I few weeks ago I made cotechino with a friend: fun experience: the butcher minced the whole too finely but the taste is super: we used different sources, Rhulman’s charcuterie book and Hugh Fearnely Whittingstall… and then we played by ear… o my god: such a good flavour
      so for new year it will be cotechino maison, sancrau, some mostarda possibly and xyzzy sweet (and lenticchie of course)
      for the time being: have a good christamass
      stef

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  3. Sancrau is my favorite way of preparing Savoy cabbage. As usual there are many variations — I’ve not used onion yet. Including pine nuts makes it sound more Ligurian!

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    1. ciao stef: sì: I did see u have it in yr blog too. do u have any reference (book)? . onion or only garlic: I have not made up my mind, to be honest. I also like the idea of the amaretti at the end

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