Liptaeur is a cheese spuma (spuma means mousse in Italian cookery terms) that comes from Trieste but can also be found in other areas once belonging to the Austro-Hungarian Empire (as Trieste did until the end of the First World War). A cheese mousse sounds a little “1970s cooking” but in fact liptaeur is much older and very traditional : this simple version, the best I have tested, comes from what is considered the bible of Trieste cookery: La Cucina Triestina by Mrs Maria Stelvio, first published in 1927 and still immensely popular. It is lightly piquant because of the gorgonzola cheese, but overall sweet and creamy, because of the mascarpone and ricotta. The paprika gives a pleasant, ever so slightly smoked undertone.
Liptaeur, spuma di formaggio e paprika da Trieste
100 g ricotta, well drained
50g mascarpone
50g gorgonzola
sweet paprika, to taste: I would suggest not to go overboard with the paprika in the mix and to sprinkle a little one on top when serving the liptauer
Mix everything together thoroughly and chill for few hours: the flavor does improve immensely after this rest.
We found this Liptaeur from Trieste to be a real winner and we have enjoyed it over few days on rye crackers and crostini, to accompany a gorgeous bottle of Gewürztraminert. I also add it spread on some halves of toasted walnuts – very 1970s indeed!
I have seen versions where mustard and/or caraway seeds were added, alongside chopped chives and/or anchovies in oil: it is a matter of personal taste but my preference goes to the very basic version described by Mrs Stelvio.
In altre versioni, a questa base ho visto aggiungere: semi di senape e di comino, filetti di acciuga, erba cipollina, cipollotti giovani – il tutto tritato, ovviamente
Italian home cooking 
I have had a version of liptaeur several times on our visit in Austria. This version sounds like it would be more flavorful that what I’ve experience in my travels.
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The gorgonzola gives a nice punch and I like the fact that it is rather economical (in ingredients I mean: just three of them). I find it goes especially well with Virgin Mary and Bloody Mary
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I enjoyed Liptauer often back in the days when I was living in Vienna. It was a staple at the local Heuriger (wine gardens). I didn’t know that they make it in Trieste, too, although it’s not at all surprising, of course. Is it your understanding that it originated there? In either case, I’m curious to try this version—with the mix of cheeses it actually sounds better than the Viennese version…
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Ciao Frank
from what I have read Liptaeur is of Hungarian origins
+ on this specific version….do try it because it is good. HOWEVER, few days ago, an Italian friend told me off saying that in the book I mentioned, this recipe does not feature! I found it on the net and many different sources agreed, but it could be that they were all wrong. I have been asking around on the web but so far nothing (I asked people who should posses that 1926 first version). My friend has the 14 edition (which SHOULD be similar to the first one) and she cannot find what I have described. Mystery! Apparently that book is very good and worth having and I am checking where I could find a good deal (and I am trying to get an edition identical to the first one and not one with subsequent changes (not by the author))…..
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Well, they didn’t get everything wrong in the 70s. 😉 Some things are just classics.
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Yup. There is always something to learn, fom everywhere and everyone (OMG, I have really reached middle age: sooooo tollerant! I hardly recognise myself)
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Ha! Same here.
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